Reproduced with permission from China 11th Edition © Lonely Planet 2009” www.LonelyPlanet.com

EATING

Shànghǎi’s faddish restaurant scene continues to move slickly up the gears with a determination
to impress foodies from all shades of the culinary spectrum. Food fashions sweep through the city’s kitchens, rewriting cookbooks and dumping yesterday’s flavours into the pedal bin. Restaurants open and close with metronomelike regularity, so expect gastronomes to be tripping over themselves to book tables at the latest and snazziest by the time you read this. Plug into the current trends by reading That’s Shanghai and its annual Shanghai Restaurant Guide (Y50).

While travellers budgeting for extravagant dining will be mesmerised by the sheer variety, tight budgeteers will find a similarly mindboggling choice from side street food markets and hole-in-the-wall restaurants to huge food malls and chain noodle restaurants such as Ajisen. In pricier restaurants the set lunches offer the best value; dinners are often double the price. Local supermarkets are in almost every residential area and often stock many Western food items.

Sample Shànghǎi’s favourite dumpling, xiǎolóngbāo (小笼包), copied everywhere else in China but only true to form here. A steamer of four costs just Y5; packed with scalding meat juices, bite with caution.  Also look out for skewered lamb kebabs, grilled up by streetside chefs from Xīnjiāng, sprinkled with chilli and cumin.

The Bund & East Nanjing Rd

A lot’s cooking near the Bund: Chinese fast food, bars, coffee shops and a fast-expanding troupe of elegant Western and Chinese restaurants, staking out territory along a
sumptuous skyline.

For all kinds of cheap eats try the Zhapu Rd food street, near the Pujiang Hotel, or the Yunnan Rd food street, not far from Renmin Sq.

Shanghai No 1 Food Store (Shànghǎishì Dìyī Shípǐn Shāngdiàn, Shanghai First Food Store; 720 East Nanjing Rd; snacks Y5-10; 9.30am-10pm) It’s a riot, but this is how the Shanghainese shop. Trawl the ground floor for egg tarts, scrummy Beard Papa cream puffs, micropizzas, strips
of zhūròufǔ (猪肉脯; dried sweetened pork) and dried seafood, or pop a straw into a thirst-quenching coconut.

Megabite (Dàshídài; 6th fl, Raffles City, 268 Central Xizang Rd; meals Y25) King of the food courts, Megabite offers Chinese and other Asian food in abundance for poorly financed and busy diners, with handy branches around town. Prepay, grab a card and head to the stall of your choice for on-the-spot service. Chefs cook it all up in front of you, dispensing with menus. There’s also a branch at Carrefour in Gubei.

Ajisen (Wèiqiān Lāmiàn; 6360 7194; 327 East Nanjing Rd; meals Y30) Simply hopping come meal time, this Japanese chain escorts diners to the noodle dish of their choice via easy-to-use photo menus and diligent squads of staff in regulation black T-shirt and jeans. Dishes perfectly resemble their photo-menu variants, so a further thumbs up for that. Oodles of branches around town, including two near Shanghai train station.

M on the Bund (Mǐshì Xīcāntīng; 6350 9988; www.m-onthebund.com; 7th fl, 5 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; mains from Y178, set lunches Y188-218; noon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm) With table linen flapping in the breeze alongside exclusive rooftop views to Pǔdōng, the grand dame of the Bund’s elegant formula still elicits applause from Shànghǎi’s gastronomes. Park yourself in a wicker chair, reach for the mismatched bone-handled cutlery and treat yourself to a two- or three-course set lunch, or go the whole hog on the crispy suckling pig. Reservations a must; alcoholic refreshments available in the ravishing Glamour Bar.

Sens & Bund (6323 9898; 6th fl, 18 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; meals Y500; lunch & dinner) The opening of this fine French dining creation from Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, situated deliciously on the Bund, was greeted with euphoria by Shànghǎi’s food-lovers. Reserve way ahead if you want a table overlooking the river.

French Concession

BUDGET

Bai’s Restaurant (Báijiā Cāntīng; 6437 6915; 12, Lane 189, Wanping Rd; dishes from Y10h11am2pm & 5-10pm) This alley-end Bai family restaurant matches its small personality with only a handful of tables, but the food is deservedly popular, so book ahead. Try a few of Bai’s fried savoury pork ribs. Photo menu.

Dōngběirén (5228 8288; 2nd fl, 3 South Shanxi Rd; dishes Y10-50) The jiǎozi at this sprightly
outfit are as true to the Chinese northeast as the Dōngběi waiters. Besides tummy-filling lamb, pork and beef dumplings, aim for the tender Sun Island flaming dragon fish or the hefty boneless pork knuckle, but pass on the dry lamb kebabs. Further branch at 46 Panyu Rd (5230 2230).

Paul (5306 7191; www.paulchina.com; Unit 1, Bldg 17, Lane 181, Taicang Rd; snacks from Y12; 7am-2am) Join the queue of francophones at this popular bakery for a coffee éclair, macaron pistache, or a plain croissant or baguette, or maintain your poise perched outside with a coffee.

Wúyuè Rénjiā (5306 5410; 10, Alley 706, Central Huaihai Rd; meals Y20; lunch & dinner) Stuffed away down an alley off Huaihai Rd, and at a handful of other locations, this pocket-sized noodle house is the best thing since sliced bread. The calming traditional Chinese decor is perfectly complemented by steaming bowls of wholesome noodles. You may have to share your table with a stranger or two, and decoding the cryptic Chinese menu can short-circuit your brain, but our advice is to go for the yúxiāng ròusīmiàn (鱼香肉丝面; fish-flavoured pork strips with noodles; Y13) and the fine bite-sized chunks of cōngyóutāng húntun (葱油汤馄饨; wonton soup with onion; Y6). The excellent xiābào shànbèi miàn comes with shrimp and fried eels in an oniony fish soup (Y16).

Bǎoluó Jiǔlóu (5403 7239; 271 Fumin Rd; mains Y20-50) Gather up a boisterous bunch of friends and join Shanghainese night owls queuing down the street all through the night to get into this amazingly busy place.  Open till 6am, it’s a great place to get a feel for Shànghǎi’s famous buzz. Try the excellent ruìshì niúpái (瑞士牛排; Swiss steak) or the bǎoluó kǎomàn (保罗烤鳗; baked eel; Y55).

Dīshuǐdòng (6253 2689; 2nd fl, 56 South Maoming Rd; mains Y28-45) Shànghǎi’s favourite Hunanese restaurant is surprisingly low-key, but the menu is sure-fire, albeit mild for one of China’s spiciest culinary traditions. The málà dòufu (麻辣豆腐; spicy bean curd) hits the mark; flesh out the meal with the máogōng hóngshāo ròu (毛公红烧肉; stewed pork in sauce of Chairman Mao’s style).

Bóduō Xīnjì (5404 9878; 9 Xinle Rd; meals Y30) Glance through the window of this cramped outpost of Cantonese/Cháozhōu cuisine and note the ease with which it takes Shànghǎi’s notoriously fickle diners hostage with a much loved, spot-on menu. Three branches in town.

MIDRANGE

Vegetarian Life Style (Zǎozi Shū; 6384 8000; 77 Songshan Rd; mains Y20-38) For light and healthy Chinese organic vegetarian food, with zero meat and precious little oil, this bright place has excellent dishes, including sweet Wúxī spare ribs stuffed with lotus root. No alcohol and no smoking it may be, but there’s an English menu and the health-conscious, ecofriendly mentality extends all the way to the toothpicks (made from corn flour). Further branch at 258 Fengxian Rd (6215 7566).

1221 (6213 2441; 1221 West Yan’an Rd; dishes Y28-76) No one has a bad thing to say about this stylish expat favourite. The crispy duck (Y48) is excellent, as are the drunken chicken and yóutiáo niúròu (油条牛肉; beef with dough strips). The pan-fried sticky rice and sweet bean paste (from the dim sum menu) makes a good dessert. It’s also worth ordering the eight- fragrance tea just to watch it served spectacularly out of 60cm-long spouts. The service is excellent.

Simply Thai (Tiāntài Cāntīng; 6445 9551; 5c Dongping Rd; mains Y30-60) Everyone raves about this place for its delicious, MSG-free dishes and crisp decor. There’s nice outdoor seating, a choice of 55 different wines and lunch specials are good value. Look out for Monday bargains (5pm to 7pm), with 50 off dishes on orders over Y60 per person. Further branches in Xīntiāndì and Hongmei Rd Entertainment St.

Lost Heaven (HuāmǎTiāntáng; 6433 5126; 38 Gaoyou Rd; dishes from Y40 h11.30am-1.30pm & 5.30-10pm) Dai and Miao folk cuisine from China’s mighty southwest, served up in appetising surrounds. Photo menu.

Azul (6433 1172; 18 Dongping Rd; tapas Y38-98, set lunches Y48-58, mains Y88-148) This Latin place is popular for its fresh New World cuisine and hip decor. Downstairs is the cool tapas bar and lounging area, while upstairs is Viva, a more formal space with a creative menu.

Sasha’s (Sàshā; 6474 6628; 9 Dongping Rd; mains from Y50; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Total tender loving care has been thrown at Sasha’s, a gorgeous, high-ceilinged French
Concession refit cafe that once housed Soong family scions. It’s pricey but requires minimal effort to get into its soothing groove (wood floorboards, abundant natural light, lovely garden). There’s also a restaurant upstairs (open 6pm to 10.30pm).

Vedas (Wéidásī Fàndiàn; 6445 3670; 50 West Jianguo Rd; mains from Y60; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm) Shànghǎi’s standout curry house is seductively designed with an inviting wood finish and open kitchen. At the cooler end of the curry spectrum, the dishes won’t scorch your tonsils: the chicken korma is smooth and tasty, but things get fiercer with the lamb vindaloo.

A Future Perfect (6248 8020; 16, Lane 351, Huashan Rd; mains Y60-130; 7am-midnight)
Winning spot buried down an alley next to the charming Old House Inn with an unfussy, appealing menu and enticing courtyard garden aspect for alfresco meals.

TOP END

Mesa (Mèishā; 6289 9108; 748 Julu Rd; mains Y158-228) All space and light, Mesa’s impressive continental menu and weekend brunches work their magic best after aperitifs at its adjacent bar, Manifesto. In warm weather, the voluminous interior further spills out onto the terrace decking above Julu Rd  and the play area for kids is a source of joy for overstressed parents.

T8 (6355 8999; 8 North Block, Xīntiāndì, 181 Taicang Rd; mains Y200, set lunches Mon & Wed-Fri 2-/3-courses Y158/198; dinner to 11.30pm, closed Tue lunch) Dishes here are best described as modern Mediterranean fusion with Asian influences, while the luxurious, seductively dark interior combines with subtle flavours and choice presentation to craft a culinary phenomenon.  Dress to impress.

Old Town

Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant (Nánxiáng Mántoudiàn; 6355 4206; 85 Yuyuan Rd; meals Y8-20; 7am-10pm) Take your place in the queue of regulars trailing from this place opposite the Huxinting Teahouse and fill yourself up with more than a dozen xiǎolóngbāo for a mere Y8.  Upstairs offers seating to the scrums.

West Nanjing Rd & Jing’an

Gongdelin Vegetarian Restaurant (Gōngdélín; 6327 0218; 445 West Nanjing Rd; mains Y15-25) The podgy effigy of Milefo (the laughing Buddha) and the faint aroma of temple incense hint at the Buddhist creed of this elegantly refitted vegetarian restaurant, housed in a redbrick building dating from 1922. The fleshless food – served in a graceful environment of stone flagging and water features – delivers shots of good karma and energising meat-free calories. The sign says ‘Godly Restaurant’.

Element Fresh (Xīnyuánsù; 6279 8682; Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd; sandwiches from Y39, salads from Y58, dinner mains from Y98; 7am-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) The focus at this bright and stylish spot is on healthy sandwiches, fresh juices and imaginative smoothies for the young laptop crowd. Spoon up some homemade hummus (Y54) or chill out with a cooling salad. Other branches are at the Superbrand Mall in Pǔdōng and Grand Gateway in Xujiahui, and there’s an express branch at 279 Wuxing Rd.

City Shop (Chéngshì Chāoshì; 6279 8081; Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd; 8am11.30pm) For obscure foods from home or Western pharmaceutical items in a hurry, this chain is convenient but items are priced to the hilt. Free delivery service. Other branches include the shop in the basement of Times Sq, 99 Central Huaihai Rd.

Pudong New Area

On 56 (Yìlú; 5830 3338; Jinmao Tower, 56th fl, 88 Century Ave) If it’s a special night out with a view you’re after, the steakhouse Grill, Japanese Kobachi, Italian Cucina and Cantonese-style Canton restaurants at the Grand Hyatt really can’t be beaten. The breathtaking atrium is a great place to meet. On the 54th floor, the Grand Café (open 24 hours) offers stunning views through its glass walls, and a good-value buffet (weekdays/weekends Y198/268).

Carrefour (Jiālèfú; 6209 8899; 268 South Shuicheng Rd; 8am-10pm) With eight branches in town, the French hypermarket giant has very reasonable prices for its excellent selection of food, clothes and household items.

Southern Shànghǎi

Uighur Restaurant (6468 9188/98; 280 Yishan Rd; dishes from Y10; 10am-2am) Perhaps the only thing interrupting your enjoyment of a whole shoulder of lamb and spicy tiger salad are the waiters dragging diners off for a whirl to Uighur folk songs.

Dōngláishùn (6474 7797; 235 Guangyuan Rd; meals Y30-40 10.30am-2am) Mongolian-hotpot king Dōngláishùn is the perfect antidote for those clammy, frigid Shànghǎi winters, but any season will do.  There’s no English menu so hand gesticulations may be required. Look for the green sign across the road from Ajisen.

Ye Olde Station Restaurant (Shànghǎi Lǎozhàn; 6427 2233; 201 North Caoxi Rd; meals Y40; lunch & dinner) With dark green shutters and a cream exterior, this is actually a former convent, across the road from the Bibliotheca Zi-Ka-Wei. The Shànghǎi cuisine is unsurprising, but the setting and period features, such as the original tiled floors and upstairs chapel, are unique. Book a table in one of the old train carriages in the rear garden.

Lianhua Supermarket (Liánhuá Chāoshì;  Basement, Grand Gateway, 1 Hongqiao Rd; 10am-10pm) One of many branches in town with a huge stock of reasonably priced goods and a great deli. Look out for Beard Papa’s gorgeous cream puffs.

DRINKING

Cafes & Teahouses

Boonna Cafe (Bùnà Kāfēiguǎn; 5404 6676; 88 Xinle Rd) The quietly trendy Boonna is set back from the action on leafy Xinle Rd. Shell out a mere Y10 for the house coffee, leaf through the appetising menu and book exchange, and applaud an excellent choice of music. Patrons get a free 30-minute chunk of internet use. Further branch at 57 West Fuxing Rd (6433 7142). Wi-fi and bilingual staff.

Bund 12 Cafe (Wàitān Shïèrhào; 6329 5896; Room 226, 2nd fl, 12 Zhongshan East No 1 Rd; 8am7pm) With a lovely terrace and an inimitable location within the Bund’s HSBC building, this is a soothingly civilised coffee spot.

Kommune (Gōngshè Jiǔbā; 6466 2416; 7, Lane 210, Taikang Rd) This trendy spot with aluminium furniture is ideal for a coffee or fruit juice (as well as full-on Y48 Sunday big breakfasts) in the Taikang Road Art Centre.

Vienna Cafe (Wéiyěnà Kāfēiguǎn; 6445 2131; 25 Shaoxing Rd; 8am-8pm, open later in summer) A deft blend of sophisticated and casual, this is the ideal bolthole from Shànghǎi’s shrill urban vibe. Chinese movie night of the Wong Karwai variety every Thursday (8pm to 11pm).

Bandu Cabin (Bāndù Yīnyuè; 6276 8267; www.bandumusic.com; 1st fl, Block 11, 50 Moganshan Rd; 10am-6.30pm) Welcoming low-key Moganshan Road Art Centre enclave with pine tables, low-cost menu (noodles, sandwiches, coffee) and traditional Chinese musical events on Saturday evening.

Old Shanghai Teahouse (Lǎo Shànghǎi Cháguǎn; 5382 1202; 385 Central Fangbang Rd; 9am-9pm) Heading up here is like barging into someone’s attic, where ancient gramophones, records, typewriters, fire extinguishers and even an ancient Frigidaire refrigerator share space with the aroma of Chinese tea.