Reproduced with permission from China 11th Edition © Lonely Planet 2009” www.LonelyPlanet.com

THE GREAT WALL 长城

He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man. – MaoZedong

China’s mandatory, must-see sight, the Great Wall (Chángchéng) wriggles fitfully from its scattered remains in Liáoníng province to Jiāyùguān in the Gobi Desert.  The ‘original’ wall was begun over 2000 years ago during the Qin dynasty (221–207 BC), when China was unified under Emperor Qin Shi Huang. Separate walls that had been constructed by independent kingdoms to keep out marauding nomads were linked together. The effort required hundreds of thousands of workers – many of whom were political prisoners – and 10 years of hard labour under General Meng Tian. An estimated 180 million cu metres of rammed earth was used to form the core of the original wall, and legend has it that one of the building materials used was the bones of deceased workers.

The wall never really did perform its function as an impenetrable line of defence. As Genghis Khan supposedly said, ‘The strength of a wall depends on the courage of those who defend it’. Sentries could be bribed.  However, it did work very well as a kind of elevated highway, transporting people and equipment across mountainous terrain. Its beacon tower system, using smoke signals generated by burning wolves’ dung, quickly transmitted news of enemy movements back to the capital. To the west was Jiāyùguān, an important link on the Silk Road, where there was a customs post of sorts and where unwanted Chinese were ejected through the gates to face the terrifying wild west.

During the Ming dynasty a determined effort was made to rehash the bastion, this time facing it with some 60 million cu metres of bricks and stone slabs. This project took over 100 years, and the costs in human effort and resources were phenomenal. The investment failed to curb the Manchu armies from storming the Middle Kingdom and imposing over two and a half centuries of foreign rule on China.

The wall was largely forgotten after that.  Lengthy sections of it have returned to dust and the wall might have disappeared totally had it not been rescued by the tourist industry. Several important sections have been rebuilt, kitted out with souvenir shops, restaurants and amusement-park rides, and formally opened to the public.

The most touristed area of the Great Wall is at Bādálǐng. Also renovated but less touristed are Sīmǎtái and Jīnshānlǐng. Not impressed with the tourist-oriented sections, explorative travellers have long sought out unrestored sections of the wall (such as at Huánghuā) for their more genuine appeal. The Chinese government periodically isolates such sections or slaps fines on visitors. The authorities argue that they are seeking to prevent damage to the unrestored wall by traipsing visitors, but they are also keen to direct tourist revenue towards restored sections.

The wall has suffered more from farmers pillaging its earthen core for use on the fields, and for its bountiful supply of shaped stone, stripped from the ramparts for use in road and building construction. A recent outcry over drunken summer raves and ‘orgies’ at Jīnshānlǐng has upped public concern over the fortification’s sad decline.

When choosing a tour, it is essential to check that the tour goes to where you want to go. Great Wall tours are often combined with trips to the Ming Tombs, so ask beforehand; if you don’t want to visit the Ming Tombs, choose another tour.

Far more worrying, some tours make tiresome and expensive diversions to jade factories, gem exhibition halls and Chinese medicine centres. At the latter, tourists are herded off the bus and analysed by whitecoated doctors, who diagnose ailments that can only be cured with high-priced Chinese remedies (supplied there and then). The tour organisers receive a commission from the jade showroom or medicine centre for every person they manage to funnel through, so you are simply lining other people’s pockets.

When booking a tour, check to make sure such scams and unnecessary diversions are not on the itinerary. As with most popular destinations in China, try to avoid going on the weekend.

Bādálǐng 八达岭

Most visitors encounter the Great Wall at Bādálǐng (Bādálǐng Chángchéng; 6912 1338/1423/1520; admission Y45; 6am-10pm summer, 7am-6pm winter), its most-photographed manifestation, 70km northwest of Běijīng. The scenery is raw and yields choice views of the wall snaking into the distance over undulating hills. Unless you visit during the bitterly cold days of winter, however, don’t anticipate
a one-to-one with the wall, and prepare for guard rails, a carnival of souvenir stalls and squads of tourists surging over the ramparts.

A summer weekend trip reminds visitors that China has the world’s largest population, so opt for a weekday excursion.

Two sections of wall trail off in opposite directions from the main entrance. The restored wall crawls for a distance before nobly disintegrating into ruins; unfortunately you cannot realistically explore these more authentic fragments. Cable cars exist for the weary (Y60 round trip).

The section of masonry at Bādálǐng was first built during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), and was heavily restored in both the 1950s and the 1980s. Punctuated with dílóu (watchtowers), the 6m-wide wall is clad in brick, typical of the stonework employed by the Ming when they restored and expanded
the fortification.

The admission fee also includes a 15-minute film about the Great Wall at the Great Wall Circle Vision Theatre (9am-5.45pm), a 360-degree amphitheatre, and the China Great Wall Museum (9am-4pm).  Bus 919 (Y12, 90 minutes, first/last bus 6.30am/8.30pm) – ask for the 919 branch line (919支线) – leaves regularly (every 10 minutes) for Bādálǐng from the old gate of Deshengmen about 500m east of the Jishuitan subway stop.

Convenient tour buses leave from the twin depots of the Beijing Sightseeing Bus Centre (Běijīng Lǚyóu Jísàn Zhōngxīn; 8353 1111) northeast and northwest of Qianmen alongside Tiananmen Sq. The main depot is the western station. Line C (Y100 return trip including entry to Great Wall, departures 8.30am
to 11am) runs to Bādálǐng; Line A runs to Bādálǐng and the Ming Tombs (Y160 return trip including all entrance tickets and meals, departures 6.30am to 10am).

Everyone else and his dog does trips to Bādálǐng, including CITS (6512 3075; www.cits.com.cn; 57 Dengshikou Dajie), the Beijing Tourist Information Center and hotels. Hotel tours can be convenient (and should avoid rip-off diversions), but you should avoid highprice excursions (up to Y300 per person). A taxi to the wall and back will cost a minimum of Y400 for an eight-hour hire with a maximum of four passengers.

Mùtiányù 慕田峪

Renowned for its Ming-dynasty guard towers and stirring views, the 3km-long section of wall at Mùtiányù (admission Y45; 6.30am-6pm), 90km northeast of Běijīng in Huairou County, dates from Ming-dynasty remains, built upon an earlier Northern Qi–dynasty conception. With 26 watchtowers, the wall is impressive and manageable with most hawking reserved for the lower levels. Hawkers go down to around Y15 for cotton ‘I climbed the Great Wall’ T-shirts. The wall here similarly comes replete with a cable car (single/return Y35/50; 8.30am-4.30pm); a single trip takes four minutes. If time is tight take the cable car up and walk down. October is the best month to visit, with the countryside drenched in
autumn hues.

From Dongzhimen long-distance bus station (Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn; 6467 4995) take either bus 916 or 980 (both Y8, one hour 40 minutes) to Huáiróu (怀柔), then change for a minibus to Mùtiányù (Y25). The weekend Line A bus to Mùtiányù and Hongluo Temple (Hóngluó Sì) runs on Sundays and public holidays (Y110; price includes entrance ticket and return fare) between 6.30am and 8.30am from the Beijing Sightseeing Bus Centre (Běijīng Lǚyóu Jísàn Zhōngxīn; 8353 1111), northeast and northwest of Qianmen alongside Tiananmen Sq and also from outside the South Cathedral  at Xuanwumen.

Jūyōngguān 居庸关

Rebuilt by the industrious Ming on its 5th century remains, the wall at Jūyōngguān (Juyong Pass; admission Y40; 6am-4pm) is the closest section of the Great Wall to town. Fifty kilometres northwest of Běijīng, the wall’s authenticity has been restored out, but it’s typically quiet and you can undertake the steep and somewhat strenuous circuit in under two hours.

Jūyōngguān is on the road to Bādálǐng, so the public buses and numbered tour buses for Bādálǐng will get you there. From the two depots of Beijing Sightseeing Bus Centre (Běijīng Lǚyóu Jísàn Zhōngxīn; 8353 1111), northeast and northwest of Qianmen alongside Tiananmen Sq, Line B buses take in both Jūyōngguān and Dìng Líng at the Ming Tombs (Y125 including entrance tickets; departures 6.30am to 10am).  Bus 919 (Y12, one hour, first/last bus 6am/3pm) to Yánqìng from Deshengmen, 500m east of Jishuitan subway station, stops at Jūyōngguān.

Sīmǎtái 司马台

In Miyun County 110km northeast of Běijīng, the stirring remains at Sīmǎtái (admission Y40; 8am-5pm) make for a more exhilarating Great Wall experience. Built during the reign of Ming-dynasty emperor Hongwu, the 19km section is an invigorating stretch of watchtowers, precarious plunges and scrambling
ascents.

This rugged section of wall can be heartthumpingly steep and the scenery exhilarating.  The eastern section of wall at Sīmǎtái is the most treacherous, sporting 16 watchtowers and dizzyingly steep ascents that require free hands.

Sīmǎtái has some unusual features, such as ‘obstacle-walls’. These are walls-withinwalls used for defending against enemies who had already scaled the Great Wall. The cable car (single/return Y30/Y50) saves valuable time and is an alternative to a sprained ankle.  Take strong shoes with a good grip. Unfazed by the dizzying terrain, hawkers make an unavoidable appearance.

The fantastic (four-hour max) walk between Jīnshānlǐng and Sīmǎtái (see below ) is one of the most popular hikes and makes the long journey out here worth it. The walk is possible in either direction, but it’s more convenient to return to Běijīng from Sīmǎtái.

Take a minibus (Y10, 1¼ hours) to Mìyún (密云) or bus 980 (Y10) from Dongzhimen longdistance bus station (Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn; 6467 4995) and change to a minibus to Sīmǎtái or a taxi (round trip Y120).  Tour buses (Y160; price includes entrance ticket) run to Sīmǎtái from the Beijing
Sightseeing Bus Centre (Běijīng Lǚyóu Jísàn Zhōngxīn; 8353 1111), northeast and northwest of Qianmen alongside Tiananmen Sq but only leave if there is a minimum of 15 people. Buses
depart on Fridays and Saturdays and public holidays between 6.30am and 8.30am.

Jīnshānlǐng 金山岭

The Great Wall at Jīnshānlǐng (Jīnshānlǐng Chángchéng; 0314 883 0222; admission Y40), near the town of Gǔběikǒu, marks the starting point of an exhilarating 10km hike to Sīmǎtái. The journey – through some stunning mountainous terrain – takes around four hours as the trail is steep and parts of the wall have collapsed, but it can be traversed without too much difficulty. Note that some of the watchtowers have been stripped of their bricks. In summer you’ll be sweating gallons but unless you carry your bodyweight in water you will need to turn to the ever-present hawkers for expensive liquid refreshment (around Y10 for a bottle of water). Arriving at Sīmǎtái you have to buy another ticket and en route you need to cross a rope bridge (Y5). The cable car at the start of Jīnshānlǐng is for the indolent or infirm (one way/return Y30/50). You can do the walk in the opposite direction, but getting a ride back to Běijīng from Sīmǎtái is easier than from Jīnshānlǐng.  Of course, getting a ride should be no problem if you’ve made arrangements with your driver to pick you up (and didn’t pay in advance).

The best transport option is to join one of the backpacker hostel early-morning minibus trips (Y180, not including ticket, lunch included) to Jīnshānlǐng for the walk to Sīmǎtái; the entire journey from Běijīng and back can take up to 12 hours. A taxi from Běijīng for the day costs about Y400. From Dongzhimen long-distance bus station (Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn; 6467 4995), take a minibus (Y10, 1¼ hours) or bus 987 or 970 (Y10) to Mìyún (密云), change to a minibus to Gǔběikǒu (古北口), and get off at Bākèshíyíng (巴克什营; Y7). If you are heading to Chéngdé (in Héběi province), you will pass Jīnshānlǐng en route.

Jiànkòu 箭扣

For stupefyingly gorgeous hikes along perhaps Beijing’s most incomparable section of wall, head to the rear section of the Jiankou Great Wall (后箭扣长城; Hòu Jiànkòu Chángchéng; admission Y20),  accessible from Huáiróu. It’s a 40-minute walk uphill from the drop off at Jiankou village (箭扣村; Jiànkòucūn) to a fork in the path among the trees which leads you to either side of a collapsed section of wall, one heading off to the east, the other heading west. Tantalising panoramic views spread out in either direction as the brickwork meanders dramatically along a mountain ridge; the setting is truly magnificent. Tread carefully – sections are badly collapsing and the whole edifice is overgrown with plants and saplings – but its unadulterated state conveys a sublime and raw beauty.

Jiankou village is rudimentary, but if you want to stay overnight, ask around and a household may put you up cheaply for a night or so.  To reach the rear Jiànkòu section first take the fast bus 916 (Y11, first/last bus 6.50am/6.30pm) from Dongzhimen long-distance bus station (Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn; 6467 4995) to Huáiróu (怀柔); try to take the kuàichē (快车) that takes the Jingcheng (京承) expressway as the standard 916 (Y8, one hour 40 minutes) is slower.  At Huáiróu you will need to hire a minivan to the rear Jiànkòu section; this should cost around Y200 return (one hour each way) as it’s a fair distance; alternatively hire a van and driver in Huáiróu for around Y400 for the day to take you on a Great Wall tour, including Jiànkòu, Huánghuā, Mùtiányù and other sections of wall.

Huánghuā 黄花

The ever-popular sections of the Great Wall at Huánghuā, 60km from Beijing, have breathtaking panoramas of partially unrestored brickwork and watchtowers snaking off in two directions. There is also a refreshing absence of amusement park rides, exasperating tourist trappings and the full-on
commercial mania of B Bādálǐng and other tourist bottlenecks.

Clinging to the hillside on either side of a reservoir, Huánghuā is a classic and wellpreserved example of Ming defences with high and wide ramparts, intact parapets and sturdy beacon towers. Periodic but incomplete restoration work on the wall has left its crumbling nobility and striking authenticity largely intact, with the ramparts occasionally dissolving into rubble.

It is said that Lord Cai masterminded this section, employing meticulous quality control. Each cùn (inch) of the masonry represented one labourer’s whole day’s work. When the Ministry of War got wind of the extravagance, Cai was beheaded for his efforts. In spite of the trauma, his decapitated body stood erect for three days before toppling. Years later a general judged Lord Cai’s Wall to be exemplary and he was posthumously rehabilitated. The wall was much more impressive before parts of it were knocked down to provide stones for the construction of the dam.

Despite its lucrative tourist potential, the authorities have failed to wrest Huánghuā from local villagers,  who have so far resisted incentives to relinquish their prized chunks of heritage.

Official on-site signs declare that it’s illegal to climb here, but locals pooh-pooh the warnings and  encourage travellers to visit and clamber on the wall. Fines are rarely enforced, although a theoretical  risk exists. From the road, you can go either way along the battlements. On the east side of the reservoir dam past the ticket collector (Y2; stick to the main entrance, other access points may charge Y4), the wall climbs abruptly uphill from a solitary watchtower through an initial series of further watchtowers before going over and dipping down the hill to continue meandering on. Be warned that it’s both steep and crumbling – there are no guard rails here.  There may be further tickets ahead, depending on how far you venture. It’s possible to make it all the way to the Mùtiányù section of the wall, but it’ll take you a few days and some hard clambering (pack a sleeping bag).

In the other direction to the west, climb the steps past the ticket collector (Y2) to the wall, from where an exhilarating walk can be made along the parapet. Things get a bit hairier beyond the third watchtower as there’s a steep gradient and the wall is fragile here, but the view of the overgrown bastion winding off into hills is magnificent.

Shoes with good grip are important for climbing Huánghuā as some sections are either slippery (eg parts of the wall south of the reservoir are simply smooth slopes at a considerable incline) or uneven and rumbling.

There are several simple outfits here if you want to spend the night at Huánghuā, with rooms ranging in price from Y10 to around Y100. Many of the restaurants at Huánghuā also offer rooms so ask around.

To reach Huánghuā, take the fast bus 916 (Y11, one hour, first/last bus 6.50am/6.30pm) from the Dongzhimen long-distance bus station (Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn; 6467 4995) to Huáiróu (怀柔). Ask for the kuàichē (快车), which takes the Jingcheng expressway and is much faster than the regular 916 bus. Bus 980 (Y8, one hour 40 minutes) also runs the same route. Get off at Míngzhū Guǎngchǎng (明珠广场), cross the road and take a minibus to Huánghuā (Y5, 40 minutes); ask for Huánghuāchéng (黄花城) and don’t get off at the smaller Huánghuāzhèn by mistake. Taxivan drivers charge around Y30 one way to reach Huánghuā from Huáiróu.