Reproduced with permission from China 11th Edition © Lonely Planet 2009” www.LonelyPlanet.com

Today’s Běijīng has seen a revolution in leisure as the city’s denizens work and play hard.  Beijing opera, acrobatics and kung fu are solid fixtures on the tourist circuit, drawing regular crowds. Classical music concerts and modern theatre reach out to a growing audience of sophisticates, while night owls will findsomething to hoot about in the live-music and nightclub scene.

Traditional Performances

BEIJING OPERA & TRADITIONAL CHINESE MUSIC
There are many types of Chinese opera, but Beijing opera (京剧; jīngjù) is by far the best known. The form was popularised in the West by the actor Mei Lanfang (1894–1961), who is said to have influenced Charlie Chaplin.  The operatic form bears little resemblance to its European counterpart. Its colourful blend of singing, dancing, speaking, swordsmanship, mime, acrobatics and dancing can swallow up an epic six hours, but two hours is more usual.

There are four types of actors’ roles: the shēng, dàn, jìng and chǒu. The shēng are the leading male actors and they play scholars, officials, warriors and the like. The dàn are the female roles, but are usually played by men (Mei Lanfang always played a dàn role).   The jìng are the painted-face roles, and they represent warriors, heroes, statesmen, adventurers and demons. The chǒu is basically the clown.

Language is typically archaic Chinese and the screeching music may not have you tapping your foot, but visually it’s a treat, with elaborate costumes and bright, magnificent make-up. Western viewers find the energetic battle sequences riveting, as acrobats leap, twirl, twist and somersault into attack – it’s not unlike boarding a Běijīng bus during rush hour.

At most well-known Beijing opera venues, shows last around 90 minutes and are generally performed by major opera troupes.  Westerners tend to see versions that are noisy and strong on acrobatics and wǔshù (martial) routines, rather than the more sedate traditional style.

Zhengyici Theatre (Zhèngyǐcí Jùchǎng; 8315 1649; 220 Qianmen Xiheyan Jie; tickets Y360-680; performances 7.30-9pm Thu-Sat) Formerly an ancient temple, this ornately decorated building is the country’s oldest wooden theatre and the best place in town for Beijing opera, other operatic schools such as kūnqǔ(昆曲) and a bite of Peking duck.

Huguang Guild Hall (Húguǎng Huìguǎn; 6351 8284; 3 Hufang Lu; tickets Y150-180; performances
7.30-8.45pm) Decorated in similar fashion to the Zhengyici Theatre, with balconies surrounding the canopied stage, this theatre dates back to 1807. The interior is magnificent, coloured in red, green and gold.  There’s also a small opera museum (admission Y10; open 9am to 11am and 3pm to 7.30pm) opposite the theatre, displaying scores, old catalogues and operatic paraphernalia, including colour illustrations of the liǎnpǔ(脸谱; the different types of Beijing opera facial make-up).

Chang’an Grand Theatre (Cháng’ān Dàjùchǎng; 6510 1309; Chang’an Bldg, 7 Jianguomennei Dajie; tickets Y50-380; hperformances 7.30pm) This theatre offers a genuine experience of Beijing opera, with an erudite audience chattering knowledgably among themselves during weekend matinée classics and evening performances.

Lao She Teahouse (Lǎo Shě Cháguǎn; 6303 6830, 6302 1717; www.laosheteahouse.com; 3rd fl, 3 Qianmen Xidajie; evening tickets Y60-180; performances 7.50pm) This popular teahouse has nightly shows and afternoon performances of folk music (2.30pm to 5pm Monday to Friday), folk music and tea ceremonies (3pm to 4.30pm Saturday), theatre (2pm to 4.30pm Wednesday and Friday), and matinée Beijing opera shows (3pm to 4.30pm Sunday).  Evening performances of Beijing opera, folk art, music, acrobatics, juggling, kung fu and magic are the most popular. Phone ahead or check online for the schedule.

Liyuan Theatre (Líyuán Jùchǎng; 6301 6688, ext 8860; Qianmen Jianguo Hotel, 175 Yongan Lu; tickets Y40-280; performances 7.30pm) Tourist-friendly theatre at the rear of the lobby of the Qianmen Jianguo Hotel. It has regular performances and matinée kung fu shows.

Sanwei Bookstore (Sānwèi Shūwū; 6601 3204; 60 Fuxingmennei Dajie; cover charge Y50; performances 8pm) Opposite the Minzu Hotel, this place has a small bookshop on the ground floor and a teahouse on the 2nd floor. It features music with traditional Chinese instruments on Saturday night.

Grand Opera House; 6618 6628; tickets Y80-120; 7.30-8.40pm Mar-Oct) You can also enjoy Beijing opera within this Qing dynasty opera house in the setting of Prince Gong’s Residence, one of Běijīng’s landmark historic courtyards. Phone ahead to check on performance times.

ACROBATICS & MARTIAL ARTS
Two thousand years old, Chinese acrobatics is one of the best deals in town.  Matinée Shaolin performances are held at the Liyuan Theatre.

Chaoyang Culture Center (Cháoyáng Qū Wénhuàguǎn; 8062 7388; 17 Jintaili; tickets Y180-380; performances 7.20-8.30pm) Shaolin Warriors perform their punishing stage show here; watch carefully and pick up some tips for queue barging during rush hour in the Běijīng underground.

Chaoyang Theatre (Cháoyáng Jùchǎng; 6507 2421; 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu; tickets Y180-380; performances 5.15pm & 7.30pm) Probably the most accessible place for foreign visitors and often bookable through your hotel, this theatre is the venue for visiting acrobatic troupes filling the stage with plate-spinning and hoop-jumping.

Tiandi Theatre (Tiāndì Jùchǎng; 6416 0757/9893; 10 Dongzhimen Nandajie; tickets Y100-300; performances 7.15pm) Around 100m north of the old Poly Plaza, here young performers from the China National Acrobatic Troupe knot themselves into mind-bending and joint-popping shapes. It’s a favourite with tour groups, so book ahead. You can also visit the circus school to see the performers training (6502 3984). Look for the white tower resembling something from an airport – that’s where you buy your tickets (credit cards not accepted).

Tianqiao Acrobatics Theatre (Tiānqiáo Zájì Jùchǎng; 6303 7449, English 139 1000 1860; Tianqiao; tickets Y100-200; hperformances 7.15-8.45pm) West of the Temple of Heaven, this is one of Běijīng’s most popular venues. The entrance is down the eastern side of the building.

Red Theatre; Hóng Jùchǎng; 6714 2473; 44 Xingfu Dajie; tickets Y180-680; performances 7.30-8.50pm) Nightly kung fu shows aimed squarely at tourist groups are performed here.

Nightclubs

Běijīng’s nightclub scene ranges imaginatively from student dives for the lager crowd to sharper venues and top-end clubs for the preening types.

Mix (Mìkèsī; 6530 2889; 8pm-late) Major hip-hop and R&B club west of Sanlitun with regular crowd-pulling foreign DJs, inside the Workers’ Stadium north gate.

World of Suzie Wong (Sūxī Huáng; 6500 3377; www.suziewong.com.cn; 1a Nongzhanguan Lu, Chaoyang Amusement Park west gate; 7pm-3.30am) This lush and elegant lounge set-up attracts glamorous types who recline on traditional wooden beds piled up with silk cushions and sip daiquiris.  There’s attentive service, fine cocktails and beer, and eclectic tunes.

Club Banana (Bānànà; 6526 3939; Scitech Hotel, 22 Jianguomenwai Dajie; tickets Y20-50; 8.30pm-4am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat) Mainstay of Běijīng club land, Banana is loud and to the point. Select from the techno, acid jazz and chill-out sections according to your energy levels or the waning of the night.

Destination (Mùdìdì; 6551 5138; www.bjdestination.com; 7 Gongrentiyuchang Xilu; admission Y30; 6pm-late) Still Běijīng’s leading gay club, Destination wins few awards for its looks, but it has always attracted a loyal following.

Live Music

A growing handful of international pop and rock acts make it to Běijīng, but there’s still a long way to go; in recent years the local livemusic scene has dynamically evolved, with the choice of venues multiplying every year.

East Shore Bar (Dōng’àn; 8403 2131; 2nd fl, 2 Shishahai Nanyan; Tsingtao beer Y20; 4pm-3am) With views of Qianhai Lake, this excellent bar hits all the right notes with its low-light candlelit mood and live jazz sounds from 9.30pm (Thursday to Sunday). Free internet use.

2 Kolegas (Liǎng Gè Hǎo Péngyou; 8196 4820; 21 Liangmaqiao Lu; cover Y20, sometimes free; 8pm-2am Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun) Awash with bargain beer and tuned in to independent, rawer sounds, 2  Kolegas is an excellent venue for getting your finger on the pulse of Běijīng’s musical fringe. It’s by a drive-in cinema.

MAO Livehouse (Māo; 6402 5080; www.maolive.com; 111 Gulou Dongdajie; 4pm-late) This fantastically popular venue for live sounds is one of the busiest in town.

What Bar? (Shénme Bā; 133 4112 2757; 72 Beichang Jie; admission on live music nights incl 1 beer Y20; 3pm-late, live music from 9pm Fri & Sat) Microsized and slightly deranged, this broom cupboard of a bar stages regular rotating, grittily named bands to an enthusiastic audience. It’s north of the west gate of Forbidden City.

Classical Music

As China’s capital and the nation’s cultural hub, Běijīng has several venues where classical music finds an appreciative audience. The annual 30-day Beijing Music Festival (www.bmf.org.cn)  is staged between October and November, bringing with it international and homegrown classical music performances. The US$324 million, 6000-seat, titanium-and-glass National Grand Theatre to the west of Tiananmen Sq, opened in 2007.

Beijing Concert Hall (Běijīng Yīnyuètīng; 6605 7006; 1 Beixinhua Jie; tickets Y60-580; performances 7.30pm) The 2000-seat Beijing Concert Hall showcases evening performances of classical Chinese music as well as international repertoires of Western classical music.

Forbidden City Concert Hall (Zhōngshān Gōngyuán Yīnyuè Táng; 6559 8285; Zhongshan Park; tickets Y50-500; performances 7.30pm) Located on the eastern side of Zhongshan Park, this is the venue for performances of classical and traditional Chinese music.

Poly Plaza International Theatre (Bǎolì Dàshà Guójì Jùyuàn; 6506 5345; old Poly Plaza, 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie; tickets Y180-1280; performances usually at 7.30pm) Situated in the old Poly Plaza right by Dongsishitiao subway station, this venue hosts a wide range of performances, including classical music, ballet, traditional Chinese folk music and operatic works.

Theatre

Only emerging in China in the 20th century, huàjù (话剧; spoken drama) never made a huge impact. As an art, creative drama is still unable to fully express itself and remains sadly sidelined. But if you want to know what’s walking the floorboards in Běijīng, try some of the following.

Capital Theatre (Shǒudū Jùchǎng; 6524 9847; 22 Wangfujing Dajie; tickets Y80-500; performances 7pm (Tue-Sun) Right in the heart of the city on Wangfujing Dajie, this theatre has regular performances of contemporary Chinese productions from several theatre companies.

China Puppet Theatre (Zhōngguó Mù’ǒu Jùyuàn; 6422 9487; 1a Anhua Xili, Beisanhuan Lu; tickets Y30-100) This popular theatre has regularevents, including shadow play, puppetry, music and dance. The huge Chang’an Grand Theatrelargely stages productions of Beijing opera with occasional classical Chinese theatre productions.

Cinemas

The following are two of Běijīng’s most central multiscreen cinemas. Only a limited number of Western films are permitted for screening every year.

Star Cinema City (Xīnshìjì Yǐngyuàn; 8518 5399; shop BB65, basement, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie; tickets Wed-Mon Y50-70, students Y25) This six-screen cinema is centrally located and plush (with leather reclining sofa chairs).

Sundongan Cinema City (Xīndōng’ān Yǐngchéng; 6528 1988; 5th fl, Sundongan Plaza, Wangfujing Dajie; tickets Y40) Don’t expect a huge selection, but you can usually find a Hollywood feature plus other English-language movies.